Mt. Kurama - Where it All Began

"Niou Mon", Main Temple Gate at base of Mt. Kurama

Mt. Kurama's History and Significance

Earlier this year I had the honor and privilege to travel to Kyoto, Japan to visit Mt. Kurama, the mountain where in the early 20th century Dr. Makao Usui, a Buddhist monk, spent 21 days undergoing shugyo, an austere form of training that fosters enlightenment.  He practiced this form of meditative conditioning many times, but on this occasion he received the inspiration for the healing system we know as Reiki and went on to teach it to a number of students.

Dr. Mikao Usui, founder of Reiki

Mt. Kurama is also known for the legend of how the warrior Minamoto no Yoshitsune learned swordsmanship from the mythical king of the tengu, Sojobo. Additionally, each year on October 22nd there is a hi matsuri (Kurama Fire Festival) at the Yuki-jinja Shinto shrine.  There are many tengu, or mountain spirits/goblins, associated with Mt. Kurama that are part of Japanese folklore.  There is a large statue of one outside the Kurama train station:

Large tengu statue at Kurama Station

Beginning the Ascent

Once we entered the main gate at the base of the mountain (photo at the top of this page) the climb was steady, mostly on gentle steps or wide dirt paths.  There are shrines at many locations along the ascent so there are plenty of opportunities to stop and reflect or enjoy a mindful moment.  Every step of the climb is full of beauty and detail -- both human-made and natural.

Steps From "Niou Mon" at Mt. Kurama

Engraved stones along Mt. Kurama path

One of the first shrines you encounter along the path is the Mao-son shrine to honor the spirit of the earth.  It's pleasant to take a moment to listen to the water spouts nearby (it's ideal to enable sound for the video clip! :) )

Mao-son shrine on Mt. Kurama

There are a few fountains along the climb up Mt. Kurama that visitors may stop at to purify themselves before continuing the ascent.  Note that there are no English instructions but with a little common sense and respect one can infer pretty quickly that you use the wooden ladles to scoop up a bit of water and pour it over your hands, taking care to pour the water into the trough of stones and not back into the source when you do so.  Some use the water to wash their faces or to drink.

Mt. Kurama Purification Fountain

Yuki-jinja Shinto Shrine

Before long we came upon the ​Yuki-jinja Shinto shrine and its enormous torii (Shinto gateway arch), the protective guardian of the village.  In this shrine is the giant Kitayama sugi (pine) tree which you can see beyond the entrance, believed to have great power.  This is also the spot where the Kurama Fire Festival takes place.

Mt Kurama Yuki-jinja Shinto Shrine

Kitayama sugi tree at Yuki-jinja shrine

Humbling view of the Kitayama sugi tree at Yuki-jinja shrine

The Upper Part of Mt. Kurama

The hike up Mt. Kurama continued to offer gentle rises and serendipitous beauty.

Vermillion bridge across drainage basin on Mt Kurama

Easy steps leading to Kurama-dera

Kurama-dera, the Main Temple

Once you rise above the forest to the preliminary grounds of the main temple of the mountain, Kurama-dera, you can look outward and see the vista of the surrounding peaks. By then you're almost there!

Vista from base of Kurama-dera main temple

Final steps leading to Kurama-dera, main temple

One of the purification fountains close to Kurama-dera.  This dragon statue is quite well-known and appears to be "breathing" the purifying water.

Kurama-dera Dragon Purification Fountain

At last we arrived at the main temple complex, Kurama-dera.  There are multiple buildings, and in the colorful main building monks were seated, softly chanting in the dim light.  Out of respect, we did not photograph the interior.

Kurama-dera main temple complex

Being the beginning of January the day was chilly, especially at the peak, and snow was beginning to fall so I ​took a few minutes to enjoy a warm meditation by the modest fire next to the main structure.  It may not look like much, but the heat was great sustenance.

Cozy bonfire at Kurama-dera

Incense kettle at main temple building entrance, Kurama-dera

In the basement of the main temple structure are thousands of small clay pots on shelves along the walls containing the ashes of people who have passed on, their names painted on the front in elegant Kanji (though a few newer ones in English).  There is a mini-shrine in the center and benches for prayer or reflection.  Out of respect we did not photograph these rooms, but I took just a close-up of the candles apparently lit in periodic succession on a table near the mini-shrine.  The rooms were so silent you could hear the breathing of people nearby, and only a few candles and dim lanterns throughout the rooms provided shadowy light.  A place of great reverence.

Inscribed candles in the lower rooms of the Kurama-dera main structure

We didn't explore the other buildings in the plaza, mainly because some seemed to be offices or closed, but one can walk beyond them to reach the peak of the mountain and continue the hike on to Kibune.

Additional buildings on the Kurama-dera plaza

Additional buildings on the Kurama-dera plaza

Around the Peak of Mt. Kurama

Beyond the Kurama-dera grounds we climbed a short distance to the top of the mountain, though it's not entirely clear when you do so that you're at the highest point.  Regardless, there are still stunning sights to behold there.  The first structure we encountered was the Osugi Gongen shrine, which honors the sugi tree Gongen, or incarnation of a buddha in the form of a kami, or Shinto spirit, to be a savior to Japanese people.  There are likely much better ways to explain it but this is my best effort given the information I could find. ;)

Osugi Gongen shrine on Mt. Kurama

For me the hike between points of interest is just as valuable as the points of interest, so I reminded myself to capture these views to enjoy later as well.

Path down from peak of Mt. Kurama

The part that made the biggest impression on me was the Kinone Sando, or "tree root path."  These gnarly exposed roots brought to mind images of Dagobah, the tree-covered swamp refuge of the exiled Jedi Master Yoda from "Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back," which seemed rather apropos for the purpose of our journey.  ;)  

Kinone Sando, or "tree root path" on top of Mt. Kurama

Sugi tree roots on Kinone Sando

If we had had time, I would have happily spent all day there.

Mt Kurama Kinone Sando benches for respite

Gnarled wood on Kinone Sando towards Kibune

Continuing the Hike from Kurama to Kibune

We continued our descent of Kurama-yama (Mt. Kurama) to the nearby village of Kibune.  The path was lovely, the air was peaceful, and the outer stillness of the forest influenced an inner stillness of the soul.

Looking back up the way we came, down Kurama to Kibune

Soon after the next structure we came across was the Sojo-ga-Dani Fudo-do shrine, which honors Fudo myōō, one of the Buddhist Kings of Light.

Sojo-ga-Dani Fudo-do shrine between Mt. Kurama and Kibune

Beyond that shrine we eventually encountered Oku-no-In Mao Den, where the earth spirit Mao-son was believed to have descended.

Oku-no-In Mao Den shrine, between Kurama and Kibune

​As we hiked from Kurama-yama to Kibune, snow showers began to fall in the forest.  The sounds were a beautiful combination of quiet (breeze, trees) and crackling activity (snow on leaves, birds).

Fascinating trees and natural oddities greet hikers on the descent to Kibune.

Giant vine along descent to Kibune

Hollowed out tree near Kibune

As you near the end of the hike you can hear two things on the wind:  the rush of the Kibune-gawa River below, and sometimes (this happened to be an occasion when it was there) tunes from a portable PA system attached to a ramen truck by the road below, alerting people to yummy warm food awaiting them.

Bridge to Kibune over the Kibune-gawa River

Kibune-gawa River

The walk along the road from the Kibune main village to Kibune-guchi Station isn't bad, and there is plenty still to see on the way.

Kibune-gawa falls -- much louder than you'd expect!

One of many artificial drainage paths down the mountain by Kibune

Trees above the road to Kibune-guchi Station

It was a beautiful, spiritual day that inspired all 5 senses and made me feel closer to my practice.  Even if you're not a Reiki practitioner I highly recommend taking a day to enjoy this hike, not far from Kyoto.